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navingulia
April 19th, 2006, 09:02 AM
A visit to Jim Corbett Forest Reserve is something I had been planning for a long time but every time something or the other used to turn up and the plan used to get cancelled. So, like always, I finally said whatever happens or doesn’t happen, we have to go.
Ever since I was a child I have built up great respect for this creature called Tiger/Sherkhan. I might have been into many adventures but it was the first time I had butterflies in my stomach, a slight nervousness in my mind and lots of cool excitement.
What’s great in being a tiger? What’s the big deal? Why does this animal amaze me so much? No, its not how this strong animal tears open an animal the size of a bull. No, its not because of its 11feet 200+ Kg body. No, its not its muscles, its speed or its ferociousness either. My admiration for this animal is for one single reason – the absolute fearlessness I see whenever I look into its eyes. Going through my adventures, trials and tribulations as part of the wonderful experience that is life I have learnt and discovered one thing ‘You discover Life only after you discover fearlessness’. Till the time we are plagued with fears, fears of not being able to achieve and obtain what we want to, fears of losing what we have, we cannot discover life.
So, I was going to meet my role model as far as fearlessness goes and I was excited. (Now don’t visualise me jumping around J, the excitement was inside.) We (me, khushi and suraj) started from Gurgaon at 11.30 pm. It was a distance of around 300kms and I expected to reach there, after the nights driving, by 5.30am to be in time for a morning safari/drive through the jungle. We were able to reach only by 6am and missed out on the 5.30 am drive in time. Now we would be able to go in only at 2.30pm in the afternoon. We planned to drive on the metalled road that goes through Jim Corbett (rather the outskirts). The jungle was dense and the drive was beautiful. I was looking at the trees and bushes and hoping I might be lucky to see the tiger here itself. We saw a small group of 3-4 kids walking to school with their schoolbags and I said ‘lets ask these kids if they have seen a tiger around’ and as I stopped my car next to the kids the kids turned to look at us and the expression on their faces changed from carefree to fear and they ran like hell. We were laughing that we 3 human beings scared them so much more than the thought of 140 (yes, a hundred and forty) tigers which roam these 1,288 sqkm forests.
A little down the road we met a young boy riding a bicycle and we started talking to him while driving next to him (luckily he didn’t run). Yes, the tigers do cross this road but you got to be luck or maybe unlucky (if you are on a bicycle) enough to catch one crossing the road. He had seen many time and people around (the locals) also get to see enough.
We were able to enjoy our time driving up and down, driving down to the Kosi river and visiting the Jim Corbett museum.
2.30pm came and we got into an open maruti gypsy (SUV on hire) and a driver and a guide. I was put into the co-drivers seat. We entered the the reserve and after making the necessary entries at the gate we started driving down the gravel path which after a while turned into a dirt track. I saw a small village (few huts) on the right and the driver told me that these people have been living here for centuries, even at the time when there were 1000’s of Tigers (Jim Corbett himself had killed over 1300 I was told). From the second I entered the reserve I was excited inside and my eyes were scanning the jungles on both sides. The path started making its way through the jungles and hills and I was excited and hoping that we would make a turn and see the tiger right in front of us. We were heading towards a place called Bijrani, 16km inside the reserve where we would make an entry and move on for the real part. We did that.
After Bijrani the vehicles which had entered moved away in different directions and we started moving along a track alone. The feeling of just being there itself was great. I was spellbound by the beauty of the area. We crossed a nearly dry river bed (only a small stream was flowing. I was very hopeful and positive that we were going to see a tiger (you got to be lucky). Tiger is the strongest and largest member of the cat family and a solitary hunter in contrast to Lions which move in a group, so its not as easy to come across a tiger. We came across groups of Chinkara and Sambar, the two deer species. Our driver would stop the vehicle and switch it off till the time the deer would move out of our way by themselves. I was scanning the jungles on both sides for any sign of tiger, any movement of the grass, any disturbance, any chirping of birds or jumping of monkeys but everything was calm and silent except for the slight breeze. We entered some very dense wood and with the cloudy weather it was quiet dark and scary there. I was hoping and wishing and looking around. Most of our permitted three and a half hours time was over. We stopped for a short break, the necessary one, and it started drizzling with signs of heavy rain coming. The driver quickly tied up the covering for some protection from rain and we started back as the rain became heavy and it got dark. I was still looking around hoping for a rain friendly tiger to be out enjoying the rain but that did not happen so to make the most of it I enjoyed the heavy rain and wind or rather the most of it that got through the partly open window and the flying top. The streams, which were dry earlier, were now flowing fast but our vehicle made through them and we were able to get back. I was intoxicated and I knew the hangover was going to remain.
Hmm, big question – ‘Was I disappointed?’. Friends, no way, not one bit. Firstly, because the drive and the beauty of the jungle was too good, secondly because I spent every single moment feeling the tiger’s strong presence and finally because I know that soon I will be back for a longer stay. Till then it was a small goodbye to the forest reserve.

rameshlakra
April 19th, 2006, 09:51 AM
Dear Navin,

U have written wonderfully. This ought to be send to a newspaper's column.

looking farward to see u on sunday.

regards,

suneet_rana
April 19th, 2006, 09:55 AM
very good Ramesh ji. mujhe laga i was also with u in Jungle. Best of luck for next time that u will see TIGER there................

jagmohan
April 19th, 2006, 12:03 PM
Dear Navin,

Oh, you reminded me of my trip to the same park a long time back. Jim Corbett is my 'Childhood Hero' and I have read all his books (My India, Tree Tops, Man Eating Leapord of Rudraprayag & Man Eaters of Kumaon Hills) umpteen times. He was a much better writer than a hunter. And no, he didn't kill that many number of tigers.

I am sure you must have read some of his books. But if you haven't, please do so immediately because then you can relate to the Nature/Tiger/Corbett in a much better way.

Very well described and keep it going.

Regards,

JS Malik

rekharathee
April 19th, 2006, 12:22 PM
navin sir,

i had also visited jim corbett, it was a company organized trip, it was a great experience, but at the same time we also went through the disappointment of not having even the glimpse of tiger, we could only see deers and monkeys hahahahh.

yah the safari was really enthrilling, and the resorts were also nice

rahultokas
April 19th, 2006, 01:13 PM
Naveen bhaisaab ram ram,

November 2003 main jab main Nainitaal gaya to Jim Corbett bhi gaya tha. Jim Corbett main jaate waqt mai aur savita dono main hi bahut umang bhari thi ki apni jindagi main pehli baar hum Tiger ko aamne-saamne dekhenge. Gate par pahunche to ek board nai hamara swagat kiya, jis par likha tha "Welcome to my Kingdom":) :)

Hum jim corbett main lagbhag 6 ghante ghumte rahe, lekin jo aapki bilkul wahi hamari bhi, EK BHI TIGER NAHI DIKHA, hahahaha, Lekin jaisa ki aapne kaha - Har pal yeh ehsaas ho raha tha ki abhi tiger saamne aa jaayega. Wo guide to kabhi humme Tiger ke FOOTPRINTS dikha raha tha, ki dekho abhi-2 yahan se Tiger gaya hai, kabhi kehta ki Gypsy se neeche mat uttro, kabhi kisi ped par uske panjoo ke nishaan dikhata. Khair humne bhi Hiran aur haathi dekh kar hi waapas lottna pada.

Waapas aate waqt main soch raha tha ki - Ek din jaroor yahan par Tiger dekhne aaounga.

sansanwalamit
April 19th, 2006, 01:24 PM
Thanks for sharing your experience,

I am a bit concerned due to no Tiger sightings, same thing happened at Sariska and we know what happened there. I hope it is not the same.

maverick6238
April 19th, 2006, 03:30 PM
nice gulia sir...... thanks for sharing the exp......:)

navingulia
April 19th, 2006, 11:13 PM
Thanks Ramesh, milte hain sunday ko
Thanks Malik Sir, ya, i was also surprised that Jim corbett killed so many tigers but i wass given an exact figure there by the guide, he killed 709 man eaters and 600+ otherwise. The wildlife act came into being only in 1972 after which tiger hunting became illegal.
Rekha Jee, next time i am going to stay inside the jungle at dhikala till the time i see a tiger.
Amit bhai thanks, yes the tiger sightings are less but then the area is 1288sq km and according to the latest census there are 140 tigers.

One thing i forgot to mention. The way i felt the strong presence of the tiger even without seeing him. i doubt if any human being or any other creature can have 5% of that be it the president/pm or be it veerappan or a celebrity. No one can match it one bit.

cooljat
April 19th, 2006, 11:16 PM
bhaisaab....what a great ride it wud have been....wishin i were there :)
next time i'll be with u!

Rock on
Jit

shailendra
April 20th, 2006, 05:25 AM
Navin, on the same I too would like to share a true family history with you and other members here:

My Grandfather (Nanaji) was a forest officer [DFO: Divisional Forest Officer, to be precise]for that general area (which included this Park; apparently called Haliey Park or something in those times as I understand) anyways; he was the DFO during the fag end of the British rule and then also for quite some time after...

Well, mom who of course as you can guess hails from UP, still recites the fond memories she has as a young kid riding thru on elephants probably as part of jungle hunting caravans etc (the ride on elephants not like some modern touristic attraction, but the preffered mode of transport in those times for these dense and impenetrable jungles)...and numerous tiger sightings, living in 'Bashas' (forest hutments), camp-fires, even vague recollections for example, of those local 'Tharu-jaati' [tribes] that were the workers, forest employees who were the natural trackers, hunters and also helped maintain the forest division, chop timbers etc. etc...

Anyways, thought I would drop in that piece of old information (now part of my family history :) ) since you were talking about the Jim Corbett Park...
I myself have not been there yet, but sure would like to go there one day, if nothing else (cause definitely and for sure would never be able to top that experience she must have had in those so uncommercialized and uncluttered times) but to just absorb the ambiance and maybe feel a lil' nostalgic of all those stories and to pay homage to my Nana who must have walked down some of those very paths proudly as the officer incharge and with awed reverence to that true royalty that has managed to be the unchallenged king all thru these long decades, the striped wonder burning bright, the Tiger himself!................................

deepakchoudhry
April 20th, 2006, 12:52 PM
navin sir,

i had also visited jim corbett, it was a company organized trip, it was a great experience, but at the same time we also went through the disappointment of not having even the glimpse of tiger, we could only see deers and monkeys hahahahh.

yah the safari was really enthrilling, and the resorts were also nice

Hi Rekha,

Some Picts from Corbett (Tiger included) :) , My friend took them last year.

Also last time I was in India, we went to ranthambore and manage to spot the tigers...it was a great experince.

Deepak

sansanwalamit
April 20th, 2006, 12:54 PM
Thanks Ramesh, milte hain sunday ko
Thanks Malik Sir, ya, i was also surprised that Jim corbett killed so many tigers but i wass given an exact figure there by the guide, he killed 709 man eaters and 600+ otherwise. The wildlife act came into being only in 1972 after which tiger hunting became illegal.
Rekha Jee, next time i am going to stay inside the jungle at dhikala till the time i see a tiger.
Amit bhai thanks, yes the tiger sightings are less but then the area is 1288sq km and according to the latest census there are 140 tigers.

One thing i forgot to mention. The way i felt the strong presence of the tiger even without seeing him. i doubt if any human being or any other creature can have 5% of that be it the president/pm or be it veerappan or a celebrity. No one can match it one bit.

Thanks for the update Guliya Jee, chalo ib thodi tassali to hui.
If anyone likes Tigers than watch the movie "Two Brother" and read the book "Life of Pi". Guliya Jee aap ye kitaab zaroor padhna.

deepakchoudhry
April 24th, 2006, 01:48 PM
Thanks for the update Guliya Jee, chalo ib thodi tassali to hui.
If anyone likes Tigers than watch the movie "Two Brother" and read the book "Life of Pi". Guliya Jee aap ye kitaab zaroor padhna.

I have watched Two Brothers, I got a copy for my Kids ...really enjoyed it.

jagmohan
April 26th, 2006, 11:33 AM
Ripper the tiger
The mystery of four tigresses killed in Corbett
by Brig (retd) Ranjit Talwar (The Tribune, Apr 26, 2006)

The recent killings of four tigresses, three in the buffer zone of the Corbett National Park and one in the neighbouring Ramnagar Division, were initially explained as the work of a male tiger with the tendencies of a serial killer. Someone like “Jack the Ripper” who had terrorized the East End of London in 1888 by murdering a number of young women.

As in the case of the ‘Ripper’ where the actual culprit was never caught or even identified, the tiger ‘Ripper’ of Corbett will also never be identified — but in this case it is simply because the tiger-murderer just does not exist! The government machinery is working overtime in Delhi and Uttaranchal to throw people off the scent.

The explanations being given out for the killings have changed several times. Initially, media reports quoting the Deputy Director of Corbett; an upright young forest officer, stated that preliminary investigations by the Park staff had revealed that the pugmarks of a male tiger had been found near the sites of the killings.

In addition, some ‘marks’ found at the site of the killings matched the injury marks on the bodies of the dead tigresses. Although the types of marks referred to in the statement were not clarified, the reference cannot be to anything other than claw marks because nothing else will make marks on the ground as well as on the body of the dead tigresses.

This is absolutely astounding jungle detective work! Will some ‘expert’ kindly educate me as to how a claw mark left on the ground can be reliably compared with an injury mark made by the same claw on the body of a victim, under field conditions? One is aware of so called ‘signatures’ left by gun barrel on a bullet fired through it, but the ability to compare claw marks on two different medias i.e. ground as well as flesh, that too under field conditions during preliminary investigations, is absolutely phenomenal! This is field level detective work at its very best and in my over fifty years of fairly close association with Indian jungles, I have NOT come across a single individual; tribal or otherwise, with such a phenomenal expertise!

The explanation of the deaths changed in subsequent reports and the Director, Project Tiger, has been quoted in the press saying that two of the tigresses, which were cubs, could have been poisoned. But he hastens to add that the deaths however are not due to poaching! Has the law undergone a change? Since when does the killing of tigers through poisoning not fall under the ambit of poaching?

Another point worth noting is that in the initial information released by the Park authorities after postmortem examinations had been carried out in each case, each of the three tigresses killed in the buffer zone of Corbett was stated to be about four years old. Now two of these have become cubs! Was the investigating staff of Corbett and the vets who carried out the postmortem incapable of differentiating between cubs and adult tigresses? Since this is too far fetched to accept, one is left wondering about the truth. What is the catch behind this deliberate misreporting of the age of these animals? To cap it all, the initial theory that these may have been killed by a male tiger has also been thrown overboard without offering any explanation for this major contradiction.

There is a very strong rumor that the tigress killed in the Ramnagar Division had four one year old cubs. If true, they would have also perished within a few days of their mother’s death, as cubs of that age cannot survive without maternal care. The magnitude of the tragedy may therefore be far more devastating than what has been reported. We may have actually lost eight tigers instead of the reported four!

I sometimes wonder why most of us displaying more than just a casual interest in the conservation of our beleaguered wildlife are held in such contempt by the government and are repeatedly subjected to such slipshod explanations?

While the common man’s knowledge and access to ground realities may not permit him to see through half truths, those of us who claim to be in the profession of conservation must be able to question such weird, impossible tales. And if we don’t, there have to be good reasons for such cowardly behaviour, both by individuals as well as conservation NGOs, including ‘giants’ in both categories.

Is our instinct for self preservation so strong that we are determined to accept even blatant lies, lest we invoke the wrath of the government and lose out on lucrative contracts and the possibility of being appointed on various committees?

And while doing so, we find it entirely acceptable to sacrifice the interest of wild animals we profess to be conserving? Are we so incompetent that we do not even understand what is possible and what is not and accept any statement by a government functionary as the only truth? Is conservation of our rapidly dwindling wildlife only a topic of Bar Room gossip? Worse — are we entirely gutless!? The truth may lie in a combination of some of these factors.